The traverse from Shinhotaka through Kumonodaira and along the Yomiuri Shindo is an incredibly 4-6 day hike in the Northern Alps. The route is very strenuous, long and remote. The area also often gets called “last undiscovered region” and it’s truly off the beaten path for hiking in Japan.
⏲︎ Time: 35-40h
✎ Kanji: 読売新道
⚲ Location: Nagano/Toyama
↔ Distance: 61.5km
✮ Difficulty: Expert
ᨒ Elevation Gain: 5243m
☀ Multiday
☉ Hiking Season: mid July
to mid October
Access
Car
Since this is a through hike the route is best walked by using public transportation. You start at Shinhotaka and finish at Ogizawa.
Public Transportation
Take the bus to Shinhotaka from Takayama/Matsumoto or Hirayu Onsen.
You’ll finish the hike at the Kurobe lake which is part of the Tateyama Alpine route. You’ll have to take the electric bus down to Ogizawa (1800Y) and then the bus (16250Y) to closest station Shinano Omachi or directly to cities like Tokoy or Nagano.
Trail description
Day 1: 3h, 9km, 1280 elevation gain (Yamap estimate: 5h with no breaks)
The start of the hike is behind Shinhotaka station. The ropeway building has a small montbell shop, toilets and a restaurant.
Day 1 is short, which allows public transportation access on the same day. Make sure to start no later than 12:00 to be able to reach Kagamidaira sanso by 5pm (dinner time).
Cross the river and walk up the road to get to the trailhead. You’ll pass an abandoned Onsen hotel and then get to the road gate. Submit your hiking itinerary at the gate and you’re good to go.
For the first hour or so you are still on the forest road gradually going up. After you pass the Wasabidaira hut it’s soon going to be steeper going up through the forest and along a river.
Kagamidaira sits on a little plain with ponds and boardwalks. The hut offers paid wifi, has outlets and free hot water. If you want to watch the sunrise go back 5 minutes and watch it from the deck overlooking the pond. You’ll be able to see the sun rise over the Hotaka peaks.
Day 2: 10h, 17km, 1600m elevation gain (Yamap estimate: 12h with no breaks)
Leave early as you have a long day today. You’ll climb the peaks of Sugorokudake, Mitsumatarenge and Washiba today.
After leaving the hut it’s a steep climb up to the ridgeline. The views today are incredible and so beautiful and scenic all day long.
After about 2.5h Sugorokugoya makes for a great rest spot with toilets and tables and before climbing the peak of Sugoroku.
You’ll continue along the ridge also climbing Mitsumatarengedake before Washiba comes into view. Depending on your timing, Mitsumatasanso makes for a great lunch spot and they have prime views of Yarigatake from their lunch room and good food.
After the lunch break climb Washiba and then continue to Kumonodaira. (I decided to go down again as I wanted to see all the parts of the Kumonodaira plain, but honestly the “Japanese” garden I made the detour for isn’t worth it, it’s easier to continue after Washiba and descent through Jiidake).
If you stay in a tent you can set up first and then walk the 25min to the hut to register and pay. Plan your hut registration wisely as it’s 1h to go there and back. The campsite has toilets and water (later in the year the water source might run dry and you’ll need to buy all your water in bottles from the hut).
If any rain is in the forecast be advised that all tent sites will flood, the soil is rocky and doesn’t drain well.
If you’re staying at the hut you’re in for a treat. It’s a beautiful hut, maybe the “coolest” one you can stay at. They have lots of art and always some kind of exhibition going on.
Day 3: 3h, 5km, 580m elevation down (Yamap estimate: 3:30h with no breaks)
Today is a short day to Takamagahara Onsen. It’s a detour to descent all the way down but if you like hot springs its a nice rest day with an amazing Onsen. (For my hike this also coincided with really bad weather, so I used the Onsen day to wait for the rain to clear up)
The way down from Kumonodaira is through the forest and quite steep. If it’s raining the whole trail turns into a river and is a slippery slope.
Takamagahara is also a special hut as it uses no (or almost no electricity) and is lit by kerosene lamps. Compared to other huts in the area it’s much more basic, but the food is good and they have everything you need for a quiet “rest” day.
The onsen is a further 20min downhill next to the river. There is one mixed outdoor pool and two “sheltered” separated by gender baths. Feels great to soak in a bath during a multiday hike.
Day 4: 10h, 16km, 1200m elevation gain, 1860m elevation down (Yamap estimate: 11h with no breaks)
From Takamagahara there are two options to go back up to the ridge. Option No.1 is to follow the stream behind the Onsen and Option No.2 is to detour back to the ridge just before Suisho.
The direct trail up the stream and to Onsenzawanokashira is a riverbed scramble that is only possible in dry conditions. Early in the year or after rain the stream turns into a raging river which makes crossing it impossible.
Option No.2 is to backtrack back up to the ridge and to include Suishodake. It will make the day even longer but it also includes an additional hut for a little break.
The trail up to the ridge is similar to the one going down. It’s a steep forest trail with lots of low hanging branches. Once you get out into the open you’ll have views of the surrounding peaks and climb next to a little stream. Keep climbing and eventually the little Suisho goya will come into view. This is the last spot that has water, toilets etc before the long traverse to Okurobe Hutte.
After the peak of Suisho the majority of hikers will turn around and descent. There are very little people and this route is truly remote with no escape route should anything go wrong. (There is cell service every once in a while with Docomo if you are on the ridge)
The trail is marked but in many sections the spay painted marks are rare and the cairns far and few in between. It’s not always easy to spot the route and the ”trail” is mostly a scramble.
The trail to Akaushi is not technical difficult, just long and strenuous. After Akaushi the steep descent begins. The ground is loose and sandy and a little more exposed than before. Until the tree line there is a combination of ridgeline, scrambling and boulder hopping.
The final part of the trail and maybe the last 2-3h of the day are in the forest going down to Okurobe Huette. The trail is steep, narrow and wet/slippery. Be careful as your legs are tired and it’s still a long way. There are many roots to climb and sections with ladders/ropes.
Okurobe hutte is at river level and if you are feeling up for it you can explore a bit up and down the stream. The hut itself has a bath (also open to tents for 700¥) and some very affordable lunch options. (gyudon for 1000¥)
The campsite is spacious and there is running water and flushing toilets. Considering the remoteness of the hut I chose to leave my food in the hut because of bears.
Day 5: 6:30h, 13.3km, 980m elevation gain, 1035 elevation down (Yamap estimate: 7h without breaks)
The last day on this traverse goes all out again. While you might think the worst is over today is the most technically difficult day with lots of exposure and climbing over questionable scaffolding and ladders.
Many parts of the trail are on wooden scaffolding along the rocky walls of the valley. Some are relatively new, others have seen better days and in one section the scaffolding is gone because of a landslide. Here you’ll have to climb down or across on a steep/sandy slope and find your own way.
Overall the scaffolding isn’t too bad but the trail is definitely exposed and the ledge you’re walking on very narrow.
After about 2h you’ll get to the landing spot for the boat to cross the Kurobe Lake. The nearby Tairano koya is operating the boat 3-5 times a day depending on the season. The boat is free and its a cool experience to cross the lake with the other hikers waiting. (I took the one at 10:20)
After the boat it’s another 4h back to the Kurobe Dam along the Kurobe River. The trail is easier on this side but there are still occasionally woodden ladders and some bridges to cross the rivers.
Once you make it back to the dam it’s going to be a shock how busy it is after being very much alone for so long. I took the bus back down to Ogizawa and from there to Shinano Omachi as described above.
Accomodation
Kagamidaira Sanso: 14.000¥ including 2 meals. No tents! Reservation required.
Kumonodaira: 14.000¥ including 2 meals. 2000¥ for tents. Reservation required (also for tents, depending on the date)
Takamagahara Sanso: 13.000¥ including 2 meals. Reservation required. No tents but an amazing hot spring.
Okurobe Hutte: 13.000¥ including 2 meals. Tents 2000¥. Reservations for hut required. They have a bath!
Other huts on the traverse
Sugoroku goya: 14.000¥ including 2 meals. 2000¥ for tents. Reservation required (also for tents, depending on the date)
Mitsumata Sanso: 14.000¥ including 2 meals. 2000¥ for tents. Reservation required for the hut.
Extra Info for this hike
Include an extra bad weather day in your itinerary planning. Especially day 4 and 5 should not be walked in bad weather and you might need to stay an extra night somewhere
Bring extra cash & food.
Make sure you have rescue insurance and your abilities match the skill level needed for this trail. This is a difficult hike that requires experience and stamina.
The trail isn’t always well marked, bring a gps and paper map and be careful to not go off-trail.
This trail is only walkable during the main hiking season, once the scaffolding is reparied and the boat is running.
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