Hakubayari Onsen to Karamatsu (Hakuba)
- Apr 15, 2023
- 3 min read
Updated: Jan 24
Hakubayari Onsen 2100m to Karamatsu 2696m is a challenging 2 day traverse on the Hakuba ridgeline. The hike is incredibly scenic and very rewarding. Day 2 is a scramble along a knife ridge and requires climbing skills and upper body strength. The ridge is very exposed and only for experienced climbers. Helmet and gloves needed.
⏲︎ Time: 13-15h
✎ Kanji: 白馬鑓温泉小屋
⚲ Location: Nagano
↔ Distance: 21.8km
✮ Difficulty: Difficult
ᨒ Elevation Gain: 2300m
☀ Overnight
☉ Hiking Season: July
to mid October
Access
Take the bus or park at the Hakuba Happo visitor center. From there take a bus to the trailhead Sarukura (猿倉), it takes about 30min and costs 1000¥. The bus runs from end of April to end of October.
Youll finish the hike at Happoikesanso and can take the lift and gondola down or walk.
The gondola/lift ticket can be bought at the second lift on the way down at Usagidaira.
Happo Alpen Line Ticket: 3000¥ one way
Trail description
Day 1: 6h, 8.4km, 1700m elevation gain.
Start from Sarukura bus stop. The hut there has toilets and vending machine etc. It’s possible to stay here to get an early start.
The first couple of hours are mostly in the forest and you'll slowly go up through the trees. The trail is clearly marked and easy to follow but it's steep.
Once you get out of the forest the panorama soon opens up and is very beautiful. Shortly after you'll cross a small stream. This whole area is incredibly beautiful and there is lots of variety with small waterfalls, peak views and a hot spring flowing down the mountain.
The onsen at Hakubayarikoya is 1500¥ for day visitors and perfect for a break before the final push to Tengusanso. Be prepared, it's very hot. There is also a seperate womans bath but you can wear a bathing suit to the big, shared pool.
If you do this hike in October they might already be dismanteling the hut, so best to check their website to see if it's still open.
After the onsen it's another 2,5h to Tengusanso, the hut for tonight.
If you have extra time you could also make a detour to Hakubayari which should add about 70min round trip from the fork.
Day 2: 7h, 13km, 630m elevation gain
Today is going to be more difficult and you'll have to pass the famous Kaerazu Kiretto (ridge of no return) using chains and your hands. The ridgeline goes up and down on the way to Karamatsu and is very exposed and dangerous in some sections. You'll have to hold your weight on chains and climb over deadly drop-offs. People are scared and slow so expect some traffic if you go on the weekend.
The estimate for today varies a lot depending on traffic and your speed/confidence. It took us 3.5h to Karamatsudake and then another 3.5h to Happoikesanso but plan accordingly and leave early for more time.
Once you get to the peak of Karamatsu the trail turns into a normal hiking trail again and is easier to walk. Descent down the trail, pass Karamatsu Sanso and make your way to Happo Pond and Happo Ski resort.
The area around Happo pond is very busy with day hikers and good for a break before you head back down with the ski lifts.
Keep an eye on the last time for the lift and start early, if you miss it you will have a lot more to walk on day 2. (Times depend on the day, check here)
Accomodation
Tengusanso: Hut with 2 meals 15.000Y; Tent 2000Y per person and 1000Y per tent
Both require advance reservation.
Extra Info for this hike
The well at Tengusanso is not filtered, either bring a water filter or buy bottled water.
It’s possible to use a bathing suit at Hakubayari onsen (especially as a woman) but expect other people around you to be naked
Bring gloves and a helmet. There are vertical climbing sections on this hike with rockfall danger.
This route is considered a scramble and has some dangerous sections, make sure you have rescue insurance and your abilities match the skill level needed for this trail.
