Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi - Kumotori Camping

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The Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route is a popular 4 days - 3 nights pilgrimage hike in Wakayama. Due to the popularity of the hike and the limited accomodation along the trail, its often booked out months in advance.

Because Kumano Kodo is a sacred pilgrimage route, wild camping is not allowed.

However, there are a couple of official campgrounds along the route and it is possible to walk the trail and camp. You will have to carry your tent and gear and also some food. The trail is well marked and the Tanabe City Tourism Bureau has an amazing website with every map you could possibly need.

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⏲︎	Time: 20h
✎	Kanji: 熊野古道 
⚲ 	Location: Wakayama
↔	Distance: 70km
✮	Difficulty: Intermediate
ᨒ	Elevation Gain: 3700m
☀	Multiday: 4D/3N
☉	Hiking Season: year-round
	

Access

Start of the Nakahechi route is in Takijiri at the Kumano Kodo Information center , which can be reached by bus from Tanabe station. It takes about 30min and costs 970¥. The bus runs from April to November (cash only). If you bring exact change it's going to be much faster and easier.

It's recommended to stay in Tanabe the night before so you can get an early start with the first bus. That way you can also stop by the visitor center and get a paper map or store extra luggage here.

Trail description

Day 1 (7:30h - 15.9km) Takijiri to Chikatsuyu

Don't forget to get your first stamp and stamp booklet.

The first day is pretty easy-going but it's still a full day so make sure to take the first bus of the day. It's a leisurely walk until the first stop in Takahara village. The rest house has nice views and is good for a snack break and to use toilets.

After Takahara it's still about 9km until Chikatsuyu-oji. Look out for the mountain crabs when you cross some of the streams. You'll also pass a michi-no-eki which sells premade food. You can pick up dinner and snacks here. The options for premade food are nicer than the supermarket in Chikatsuyu.

It took us 7:30h of pretty slow walking with plenty of picture stops and little breaks. We started at 9am and arrived at the campground at 4:30.

The campsite for tonight is a bit run down in parts and might look like it's closed, but just keep walking past the abandoned tennis court to the main building for check in.

Day 2 (10 to 12h - 25km) Chikatsuyu to Kawayu

Start very early as today will be a long day. If you can't make it in time or the weather is bad it's also possible to shorten the distance of your walk and take the bus. There are multiple little trails down to the road with a bus that runs semi frequently.

Once you arrive in Hongu Taisha you can explore the main shrine and surrounding area. If you still have some extra energry walk the pass to Yunemine Onsen. This part is quite steep as your going over a small mountain to get to Yunomine Onsen. Its an extra 2km which should take you about an 1h.

If you have the time, Yunomine Onsen is highly recomended, as it has one of Japans oldest onsen. Tsuboyu is essentially a little shack next to the river and it's very hot. It's a private bath and multiple people can enter at the same time (we squeezed in with 3 people). Tickets are 770¥ per person and you get 30min.

There are no reservations and its first come, first serve. You'll have to go to the little shop on the main road, get your ticket and then wait your turn.

From Yunomine Onsen to Kawayu Onsen its another hour and about 4km along the road.

Day 3 (6h - 13km) Kawayu to Koguchi

Today is shorter and easier than yesterday giving you plenty of time to relax at the campsite by the river. There is a small snack store in town with irregular hours, you can stop there on the way to the campgroun to check if it's open.

Day 4 (7h -14km) Koguchi to Nachi Falls

The last day starts with a bit of elevation gain. It's not too bad if you're decently fit but many call it the hardest section of the Nakahechi Route. We started at 7am and arrived at the falls around 2pm, explored the area and then took a bus to Katsuura where we stayed an extra night and enjoyed some seafood.

Accomodation

Night 1: Iris Park Auto Campground 

Tent site 2300¥ per person including Onsen. They also have a cooking shelter, where you can have a BBQ and WIFI. Onsen had shampoo and soap. There is a supermarket (A-Coop) within walking distance.

Night 2: Tanabe- Kawayu Camping Ground

Tent side 1200¥ per person. No reservation required but check in by 8pm (this is a long day so make sure you leave early enough to arrive by 8pm!)

They have a cooking shelter and the town has a free public onsen next to the river (you'll need a bathing suit).

Kawayu has a restaurant or you can get supplies in Hongu from the convenience store (Yamazaki).

Night 3: Shingushi Koguchi Camping Ground

Tent site 1000¥ per person including use of their sento/bath. They also have a sheltered BBQ.

The town has a very small shop (南方商店) with very limited selection and opening times. Best to have some back-up food in case it's closed.

Extra Info:

• The hosts at the campgrounds don't really speak English, so don't expect English support and have google translate on your phone.

• Make sure you know where to get food, as mentioned above .

• It's recommended to stay an extra night in Tanabe and Kii-Katsuura, there are a couple of budget friendly guesthouses on booking.com

• The campgrounds don't have rental gear, you'll need to bring your own tent, mat and sleeping bag.

• Bring good rain clothes, it rains a lot in Wakayama.

• Make sure to arrive at the campsites by 17:00 as some won't be staffed anymore after then.
  

Elevation Profile & Map

Gallery